Each Cook Must Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Top Restaurants.
When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
A Shocking Recognition
This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.
“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Modesty
The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
A Signature Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.
Outranking the Giants
Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.
A Philosophy of Warmth
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Story of Hard Work
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
A Achievement for the People
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.